On Sunday, we toured the Jewish quarter. As I said earlier, one of the best decsions I made that day was to go at 11:00am, instead of 3:00pm. A cozy group of three with a tour guide, made the whole experience a walking dialogue more than an exasperated lecture. Just my style. Here are a few highlights, small stories, and interesting tidbits. There aren't many pictures from the Jewish synogogues, as photography was not allowed.
The Jewish ghetto was established in Prague around the 12th century, a place where Jews created a community to escape persecution and death from the Crusades. However, by decree of the pope in the 13th century, Jews and Christains were to be completely segregated and a wall was built around the ghetto. If you, as a Jew, were to leave for some formal reason you would have to don a patch, a distinguishing collar, or a large cap. They remained segregated well into the late 19th century.
It made me think not only of the (many) centuries of discrimination and persecution that has been made agains the Jewish community---but also the mistreatment and killing of other minority groups. Too often, one builds a wall to define differences, instead of building a bridge to understand similarities. Instead of seeing a person, people too often see labels. Allowing this form of dehumanization gives way to more and more extreme dehumanizing acts---the most severe of which is killing and more horrifically (and devestatingly common), genocide. Once you can excuse the persecution of an individual, there is a slippery slope of stereotyping. The fact that this is such an integral part of our history in America, and in countries all over the world in the past and today, makes me a bit sick to my stomach. I think the world would be a more harmonious and peaceful place if people tried to: 1. view people as individuals, 2. go beyond appearances, and 3. build bridges, not walls. It is our only hope.
A bit unglamorous, here is a picture I took of a handdrawn map showing the division of Prague with the Jewish quarter. It was before I knew it wasn't allowed. The Jewish quarter is shown in gray.
We also went to the Old Jewish Cemetary. Which is, as you can see, a old crooked cemetary with piles and piles of stones. Opened around the 14 or 15th century, it was unconventionally located in the middle of the ghetto. This is unusual because it is customary in the Jewish faith to have cemetaries farther from the synogauge and outside of the community. A limited space, it filled up quickly, therefore people were buried on top of one another. This resulted in a slightly eerie cemetary with crowded and crooked headstones and uneven ground.
We visited Mordechai Maisel's grave, the wealthy mayor of the Jewish Ghetto who lead a period of economic and cultural revival. He is a Jewish hero, and his touch was left all over Josefov. Little stones and notes were left all over his grave. On the surface, this seems quaint and memorable. But our tourguide laughed as we walked past. Though it is Jewish tradition to leave small stones on a grave you have visited to let others know that person is still is remembered...however, haphazardly leaving stones on graves is disrespectful. Tourists, prompted by the incomplete stories of guides, go through the motions attaching such novelty to an act they don't even understand. In some way, it made me happy to be staying here longer with more educated instruction. I can, at least, try and begin to understand what lies beneath the surface of buildings, events, and traditions.
We went to several synagogues, only one of which is still in working order. This one was an Orthodox church with a facade of austerity. The Orthodox Jewish faith, even more steeped in tradition, was interesting to learn about via the synagogue layout. One interesting aspect, that I also misjudged on appearance was the place of women. Always looking to start a feminist battle, I interpreted the women's separation from men as one usually would--a backwards attack on women that is awfully archaic. Actually, women are excused to pray separately because they need to be freed from the prayer schedule (family duties, and what not). Also, they are out of sight, AS TO NOT DISTRACT THE MEN FROM PRAYER. Apparently, the ADD linked to the Y chromosome and women would disrupt the heavens. It is more for the men's deficiency than the women's. Interesting antecdote...but I still think they should be together...
Below is a picture of a little door in the top of Rabbi Loew's Orthodox synagogue which is legended to hold the Golem.
Read the legend of the Jewish (with Kabbahlic influences) Golem created by Rabbi Loew. I am not going to write it out, but check this site.
At the bottom of the page: http://www.scrapbookpages.com/CzechRepublic/Prague/Josefov/Cemetery02.html
The last sight we saw was this beautiful Spanish Synagogue that was built after the Jews were able to integrate. It is FAR more ostentatious and a symbol of the reformed Jewish influence on the Orthodox community--which caused quite a ruckus.
After, we enjoyed gelato for three at an upscale gelato place called, Cafe Milano. I am sorry Dolce Gelato---but it was the best I have ever had. Hint for determining whether it is a good gelato place--check the banana gelato. If it is bright yellow...move on. Have you ever had a bright yellow banana? It should be dull like the inside of the banana.
After the tour was done, we stopped by the craziness that was the Red Bull "Gives you wings" competition where people create ridiculous float-like vehicles and run them off a platform into water. It is ridiculous.
That...was my day on Sunday.
